Ziereisen 'Tschuppen' Spatburgunder | 2017
Germany isn’t really known for its Pinot Noir (locally ‘Spatburgunder’) but it should be. They are wines of real focus and complexity, layering fresh red berry fruits on top of earthy Old World charm.
Smell red cherries and fresh strawberries. There is a sappy tartness to this – a bit of bristle on the palate – which gives it energy and a bit of zeal. Darker fruits chime in a little late; mulberry and blackcurrant, a bit of nettle. The smallest bit of cola or sarsaparilla nuance, too. Beneath that is the brooding umami. Mushrooms and wet earth, a glimmer of soy. Earth and decaying leaf round out the savoury components. The tannin is already in a fine grain space and will only settle further into the wine. I don’t often play the food recommendations game as I think people get a bit hard and fast with it, but, if ever there was a ‘duck wine’ this is it. The plummy spice and freshness of the acidity would pair beautifully with bird.